They claim that the Pantry has been open nonstop and without a customer for over 75 years. This isn’t true. They were shut down a few years ago for a day when the health department was appalled by what they found. Ironic, Richard Riordan owns a majority stake in this L.A. landmark and even he couldn’t prevent the shutdown. Opening a day later, having scraped the yellow off the ceiling and moved the trash bins away from the griller, the Pantry is one of Los Angeles’s best institutions. A strong, believable rumor has it that the waiters are all ex-cons. This may or not be true, but they’ve all been there for decades. Lifer waiters are hard to find. But this place is the tops for a great diner steak. Go for breakfast and load up with pancakes, eggs, and bacon. With a grill that’s been going nonstop for so long, everything is saturated with a rich, savory flavor. It’s a dive, a greasy spoon, and it’s perfect. Your typical dinner starts with homemade sourdough bread and coleslaw made from scratch. Dinner comes with the vegetable of the day and a side of glorious potatoes. They do other dishes, but who wants stroganoff when you can have steak for $13?
877 S Figueroa, downtown Los Angeles