Los Angeles

My residential trajectory in Los Angeles has been distinctly south west: towards water. No matter how many people tell me Eagle Rock and Silver Lake are enclaves of artist hipsters where I would find community, there’s nothing there that compares to living as close as you can to a giant body of water. The air in the northeast of the city sucks, the traffic is a nightmare, and have you seen the size of their potholes? The reason it’s a hipster enclave is because hipsters reject mainstream ideals to be iconoclasts. But the one thing the mainstream has right is a lifestyle of clean air, blue skies, and tidal balance. And for those of you who may criticize that I just haven’t spent enough time in the north east to appreciate it, I’ll have you know that the same weekend we went to Auntie Em’s Kitchen, I also ran the inaugural City of Angels Half Marathon which started at Travel Town in Griffith Park, crossed Los Feliz to descend into Silver Lake, traversed Echo Park and the lake, and climbed downtown to Civic Center. My wife has worked downtown for six years, I’ve driven all over Mt. Washington, and several of the “Eames-era” knockoffs in our house are from various parts of the north east craigslist community. Every second I am there the dominant thought is “sure, it’s nice, but couldn’t it be closer to the water?” I want my Case Study house with ocean views. With that in mind I’m both delighted and depressed to find a place like Auntie Em’s, because it’s so good I want it closer to where I live – I would eat here all the time! Of course, if it was on the west side it wouldn’t be what it is: a fabulous neighborhood cafe whose casual environment belies its exceptional, original quality. If it were located in Santa Monica it would be twice as expensive, five times as pretentious, and the coffee would suck. Everything at Auntie Em’s is made from scratch, and if not, is bought from small farms or artisnal cheese makers. Open faced breakfast sandwiches are generously portioned, and paired with a bottomless cup of coffee will set a pleasant tone for your weekend. The desserts look spectacular (and are made on the premises), and word is that their red velvet cupcakes are perfect. Auntie Em’s Kitchen changes their menu to reflect the season; another hallmark of an establishment that curates its food rather than simply serving it. This place is clearly a labor of love for food and community, damn it. I want to come back every day and be a regular, I want to spend a fortune in their adjunct market and go cheese-crazy, I want to indulge in their Farmer’s Market dinner. Sadly, it will be some time before I make it back because it’s really, really, really fucking far away. Two can eat blissfully well for $25.

4616 Eagle Rock Blvd, Los Angeles, (323) 255-0800

I won’t go into full details about everything I’ve learned about buying cars. But in case you are interested, you can read my full advice here. I had been toying with the idea of getting a new car for a while but didn’t want to saddle myself with car payments. I’m a freelance writer and my income is sporadic at best. But in the car world of accounting, a new car has monthly payments while a car you own demands repair costs in large, lump sums. My accountant urged me to lease a car since almost the entire cost could be deducted for my business. I loved the idea of a lease, since I get bored with my cars after two years. No sooner had I decided to start looking for a car then my mother called to tell me about Audi’s end-of-year special moving their Audi A4 2.0T models on lease for $350/mo with no security and no down payment. After some quick internet homework determining the A4 to be a sweet ride, I ran my butt over to Santa Monica Audi, walked in the door and asked the first salesman for a test drive. Sherlock stepped up and we went for a hard-torque spin around Santa Monica. I was sold and began the process. In my relationships with celebrities I’ve had the occasion to witness the spending of vast sums of money on a variety of goods. By and large, money does not always buy customer service. You only have three real cell phone provider options, so the big corporations don’t really care about customer service (you are disposable). There’s few real choices for gas, groceries, and office supplies so you never get a high quality retail experience there, either. But around the $30,000 mark things start to change and Audi of Santa Monica is proof of this. The salesmen are nice. They spend time with you. Get you coffee. Show you all the different goofy things about your new car, like the flip down visor above the rear-view mirror and the meaning of the mystery buttons ever car has these days. When I decided I wanted the A4, they did not have the color I wanted on the lot. They said they would bring one up from Long Beach. After a week, they did not have the car. I called the GM and said that it was fine, I would wait, but the week without the car would need to be refunded or credited to my account. No car, no money. Fifteen minutes later he called back offering me a quattro (AWD) version in the color I wanted at the same lease structure. I absolutely agreed. When I brought my car in to have the iPod interface installed I was given an appointment time and a completed time estimate that they stuck to. I recently brought in my car for its 5,000 mile service, which was included in my car’s lease. I had a few issues I wanted checked and they had a technician drive the car home for the night for diagnosis. They arranged a discount on a rental car, though I was hoping for a courtesy loaner. Finally, until commission sales are removed from the buying experience, and the mystery of different add-ons clarified for the customers up-front, even the best car buying experience will still be short of perfect.

(310) 451-7676, 1020 Santa Monica Blvd, Santa Monica

This is not “manscaping”. In recent years the Metrosexual Male has grown out of its gangly adolescence and into some sort of strange, beastly puberty. Magazines like Stuff and Maxim – at war with their inner Metrosexual – decided that massive doses of misogyny was the solution. I reject this asinine viewpoint and I dare anyone to call me soft while I shave with a straight razor. Stuff and Maxim are an affront to masculinity by their exploitation of women. They might as well don white robes and join the Taliban, these men who believe strength comes through the domination of women. These are the same morons who think you need more than one blade on a razor. The new Gillette Mach 12: The first blade mocks the hair. The second blade talks kindly to it. The third blade lifts up the hair’s spirits so that the fourth blade can circumcise the shaft. The fifth blade is intentionally left blank. The sixth blade ran all the way home… More blades does not make the man! There is power in knowing how to use a straight razor. One man, one blade. You must learn the contours of your face and glide the razor across it while scraping off just the top layer of skin. A straight razor shave requires oils, lotions, and salves that appeal to the love of product, while serving a very real purpose at every stage: not dying by your own hand. The Art of Shaving is one of a few salons for men that offer a classic straight razor shave as well as facials and other folic grooming. They present themselves as a classic barbershop in the model of the opening scene of The Untouchables. They sell their own line of pre-shave oils, shaving soaps and creams, and aftershave balms in a variety of scents and options. I use their unscented line, which has a pleasantly neutral odor. Lemon, lavender, sandalwood, and others are also quite nice. My first visit was for an education. I wanted a traditional shave so I could learn proper technique to perform my own straight razor shaves. My barber was patient in showing me all the details I needed to know in order not to slice my face to ribbons. After much practice with a safety straight razor (purchased at the store) I graduated to a beautiful German-made razor; a gift from my father. I continue to use the Art of Shaving oils and lotions since they make an outstanding product. I also use their badger-hair brush, a variety of which can be found at the store in prices from $50-$500. They also sell gorgeous handled safety razors, mirror sets, and other grooming supplies as individual or gift sets. Have you seen Pan’s Labyrinth? Do you think westerns are manly? Prove you’re a real man – not through the ugly “lad mag” phenomenon, but through dragging precision-honed steel across your face every day without slitting your own throat. The rest of you misogynist pigs can take your weak-ass multi-blade embarrassments and go fuck yourselves.

(310) 785-3993, 10250 Santa Monica Blvd, Los Angeles

I used to consider becoming a grownup the day you take responsibility for your actions. I’m changing my attitude. The day you become a grownup is the day you no longer crave candy bars and chips and instead drool over a salt bagel with manchego and fig jam. The Artisan Cheese Gallery is one of just a few real cheese shops in town, and while their selection is not as expansive as the Cheese Store of Beverly Hills, it is cultivated with care. One could make the argument that it’s not how many Epoisse a store carries, as long as the one stocked is the best. In the case of the Artisan Cheese Gallery, they stock a fine Epoisse, as well as a good spread of everything else (raw sheep, cow, and goat choices, hard and soft cheeses, stinky and non). Their staff is very friendly and those I spoke with knew what they liked and could guide anyone from a novice to a pro chef. They also have a kitchen that serves sandwiches and salads made with their cheeses. I asked for something that would knock my socks off, and they served me a sandwich of duck confit, fig jam, and a mystery white cheese (probably a gouda) on focaccia. It was delicious. Perfect, in fact. I could eat that sandwich every day and die a happy man. I’d die a young, happy man and my epitaph would read, “Became fois gras.” They also have a wide selection of dry goods, pastas and gourmet peanut butters, biscuits and crackers, and anything you might need to put together a cheese tasting party if you found yourself stuck in the valley desperately seeking fromage. (As opposed to being stuck in the valley looking for frottage, which is ridiculously easy to find.) As with all things grownup, expect to pay adult prices for the experience.

(818) 505-0207, 12023 Ventura Blvd, Studio City, CA

This is, hands down, the second best burger in the city. The menu has loads of other choices, all of which look tasty, but God damn is this a good burger. Fresh and tasty beef done right in a red and black room filled with guns. Also a fashionable bar, The Arsenal comes fully loaded with goofball booze concoctions to satisfy your most queer of girl drink drunks (like me).
Update April, 2007: they now offer two new chic options: the diet du jour (bunless burger over salad), and a Kobe beef burger for two and a half bucks additional. The Kobe burger rocks, well worth the upgrade price. The fullness of the Kobe is complimented by an au jous dip and grilled onions. Super tasty!

12012 W Pico Blvd, Los Angeles

I grew up a suburban conservative Jew; a third generation American from Ukrainian immigrants who secularized and assimilated. Israel was a concept in prayer and after 1946 a vacation spot, but New York had more to offer east coast Jews than making aliyah (good bagels and a shorter flight). Therefore it came as quite a change to find myself in Los Angeles and meeting Israelis, Jews who made aliyah (the act of going up – used to describe settlement in Israel or approaching the dais in the synagogue), Arabs, Palestinian Christians, and all the other cast of characters who define and belong to the tangible reality of Israel. Los Angeles’ climate has a lot in common with Israel so it is chock full of Israeli immigrants, and if you asked random Angelenos on the street they would probably miscategorize Israelis as being a bunch of very loud Jews. Israelis are proud to nickname themselves Sabras, a prickly desert cactus. Keep this in mind when you visit Aroma, an Israeli bakery catering to expats and valley Jews. Aroma is dairy/vegetarian in order to maintain a glatt (pure) kosher kitchen, but that doesn’t prevent them from having a huge menu of salads, sandwiches, pizzas, and Israeli bakery specialties which are the best reason to go. First, I had the best cup of coffee I’d tasted in the many months since I was in Greece. Then, our table shared a Jachnun, only available on the weekends, an unbelievable pastry dish of layers of dough baked for ten hours and served with tomato dip and tahini. The flavor of the Jachnun is sublime, with every bite like walking into a bakery and taking in the smell of freshly baked bread. I ordered a Malawach roll, a flaky pastry stuffed with hummus and hard boiled egg. The Ziva, also a classic dish baked in their clay oven, is perfect when stuffed with cheese and olives. Already jammed full of bread, we had to order desserts, which were just as incredible as their baked goods. Even though it’s way the hell up in Encino, Aroma is worth the field trip. Plan on dropping thirty bucks for two.

18047 Ventura Blvd, Encino, (818) 757-0477

There’s one waiter at the Apple Pan who is so consistently curt, yet so amazingly efficient, that all the others guys who work the U-shaped counter have to bear the weight of his reputation. Expect at least a ten minute wait for a seat at the counter-only seating, and figure out what you want – quick. Then, as you place your order for a steakburger, don’t be alarmed when your waiter cuts you off and finishes your thought for you. When you’ve only got four things on a menu, with maybe four options on each one, how long do you think you could stand a hundred times a day, “uhhh, the… Uhhh.” It’s just a good thing this guy hasn’t snapped yet and reached across the counter at some poor west sider and gone, “WHAT? WHAT THE CHRIST DO YOU WANT TO EAT? A BURGER? OR A FRIGGING BURGER? MORON!” Beverages served in the classic egg cups you had in school when you were five. And yes, make sure you get the apple pie. It’s on the sign, dummy. It’s good. The prices are shocking for being a lunch counter, but when you exist in the shadow of Nordstrom across the street I assume the real estate price is stratospheric. Two people eating burgers, drinks, and pie will have to shell out twenty five bucks. Whoa!
10801 W Pico Blvd, Los Angeles, (310) 475-3585

In the past few years street food has taken over haute cuisine so you can feel like you’re cool for paying $13 for a single tasting plate of Spanish food. AOC, from the women who brought you Lucques, does it very well offering a variety of cheeses, meats, fish, and assorted vegetables alongside a generous wine accompanying each dish. This is the kind of menu people call “playful” when they really mean “I paid a lot for little portions.” You’ve got to order five of these bastards to feel like you’ve eaten a meal. The faux wood menu and contemporary design will make you feel like a real foodie schmuck after you’ve eaten $100 worth of food and are still waiting for the entree. Still, the seared fish (you pay extra for it being closer to raw) and lambs are delicious, and the cheese selection is stellar. (It ought to be; AOC stands for Appellation d’Origine Controlé, the French government bureau that is responsible for guaranteeing the authenticity of foods, including cheese. Would you pay $50 per person to eat at a restaurant called FDA?) (Reviewed May 2004)
Follow up – May 2006: A.O.C. still stands as one of the best restaurants in town. But while the food was close to orgasmic in its taste, quality, beauty, and design there were a few things that got under my skin. First, don’t *ever* call something family style when the entire dish weighs less than one ounce. Second, when your table tells you that they would like some cheese, and what was served is thin to the point of transparency, see what you can do about either getting more or doing something nice for them. The overarching attitude of the restaurant as conveyed by our server and the words the place uses to describe itself try to get in the way of what is an extraordinarily good meal. The wine list is amazing with options and prices that will drop your jaw. If you do the full A.O.C. experience with wine, cheese, and at least three dishes per person a group of four will run $100 per person at minimum.

8022 W 3rd St, Los Angeles, (323) 653-6359

There are those who like their red sauces tangy, and they go to Pizza Hut. Those who like it sweet go to Papa Johns. Those of us that like a lot of brown sugar in our pasta sauces can go to Al Gelato on Robertson. The pasta is served family style, from a large bowl. Order the meatball and it’s the size of a baby’s head. The food is good, but save room for the dessert. A vast selection of home made gelato and it’s fanfreakintastic. Apparently, in God they trust, all others pay cash. Greenbacks only! Two people can eat here for twenty bucks, but the gelato will push the tab to thirty – cash only.

806 S Robertson Blvd, Westside, (310) 659-8069

Coming into Nadine Trujillo’s kitchen is like being invited into her home (with her daughters, Denise and Jackie, too). Everything here is cooked from genuine home brewed recipes, from the salsa to the mole, to the tacos a la crema that are considered some of the best in town.

3510 W Sunset Blvd, Silver Lake, (323) 913-1422